Yesterday I was so anxious I got stuck in a bookshop. Then I came home, and made this: sticky-sweet-sour black rice, like a risotto falling through a black hole. And crisp silver salmon, only just seared. And it was all delicious. And things improved.
Mussels demand the absolute commitment to food that is the hallmark of all the best dinners: hands-on murder, hands-in devouring, and plenty of wine. You can’t eat mussels half-heartedly. These are the best mussels I have eaten, ever, and a team effort from Tall Man and me. Also featuring chorizo, excellent wine, and some incredible cheeses. Very quick. Very delicious. Very, very easy.